The Art of Choosing a Stone: Knowledge That Reveals Its Character

Before a stone reaches the Warsaw Atelier, it undergoes a selection process that frequently spans several months. It is at this stage that the decision is made as to whether a given gemstone holds the potential to proceed to the next phase of work.

The stones at La Marqueuse are sourced from carefully selected, ethical origins: emeralds from Zambia (the Kagem mine), sapphires from Ceylon, pink sapphires from Madagascar, and rubies from Mozambique.

Selection decisions are grounded in years of gemological practice. Experience allows one to assess not only the quality of a stone, but also its potential in the context of a future setting. Finding the right specimen takes time, and is the result of a method built upon matching proportions, structure, and colour to the criteria of La Marqueuse.

Stone selection at La Marqueuse is founded upon precise analysis that reaches beyond the basic parameters of a certificate. In the case of diamonds, the 4C principle serves as a point of departure, yet it is not the decisive criterion. Every stone is analysed in terms of its proportions - the angles of the cut, the depth of the pavilion, the width of the table, and the thickness of the girdle. Of paramount importance is whether light remains within the stone and is guided through it with precision.

In coloured stones, hue and its distribution are of equal significance. Saturation and uniformity of colour influence the way in which the stone interacts with light and functions within a composition. Stones with uneven colour distribution are rejected, as are those whose internal structure may compromise durability including those with fractures that reach the surface of the facets.

The symmetry of the form and the precision of the cut determine whether a stone may be selected. Hardly any meet these criteria. Stones with an excessively deep pavilion are eliminated – their carat weight fails to translate into visual effect, and a perfect setting becomes considerably more difficult to achieve

In the case of pearls, those displaying dominant green or blue overtones do not meet the selection criteria - Tahitian pearls being the sole exception.

Light is the primary instrument of assessment at every stage of work. The designer observes the way light passes through a stone and is reflected from its facets – it is on this basis that its potential and the direction of the form are evaluated. Not all qualities can be read from the parameters of a certificate; some reveal themselves only through direct observation.

The gemologist analyses the behaviour of light within the stone, treating it as a tool for assessing its properties. In subsequent stages, the jeweller and setter draw upon the play of light across the surface of the gold to evaluate the proportions of the model and the evenness of the setting.

When the jewellery reaches the salon, in the presence of the client, light begins to work in motion – this is the moment at which the effect of every preceding decision is revealed.

Stone selection encompasses the building of a coherent colour palette, which naturally narrows the range of choice. Emeralds are maintained in a cool "bluish green" tonality, rubies carry a deep, wine-like hue, and brown diamonds appear in copper and peach tones.

The colour of a stone determines its relationship within a composition - influencing the selection of accompanying stones and the shade of gold. Even a subtle shift in colour temperature may disrupt the overall balance.

In the case of pearls, selection focuses on those with rose and silver overtones. Among Tahitian pearls, "peacock" hues are particularly prized: those in which multi-tonal depth and a delicate hint of green are both present.

Colour always functions in relation to the whole - not as an attribute of a single stone, but as an element of a composition.

Stone selection at La Marqueuse is founded upon the longstanding gemological practice of Urszula Dmowska-Gęsiorek, a certified jewellery expert, pearl specialist, and international HRD diamond expert.

Her knowledge and experience allow stones to be assessed not only for their visual qualities, but also in terms of proportions, structure, and the possibilities of the setting.

Each variety of stone demands its own distinct approach. Selection is a process of conscious refinement - until the one is found.