Rose Gold - From royal salons to the modern world

The colour of rose gold is not created by a surface finish or coating. It begins much earlier, at the moment the alloy is formed. Pure gold is combined with carefully measured amounts of copper, often accompanied by a small proportion of silver. The balance between these metals determines the final tone.


The 18-karat gold most commonly used in fine jewellery contains 75% pure gold, yet there is no single formula for rose gold. Every jewellery house develops its own alloy, refining a tone that reflects its aesthetic. As a result, rose gold can range from delicate, powdery pinks to richer hues with subtle copper undertones.

Just as there is no single shade of marble or wood, there is no single shade of rose gold. While the name remains the same, the nuances can vary remarkably.


At La Marqueuse, the colour of the metal is considered an integral part of the design. Our rose gold has been developed to balance cooler pink notes with soft peach undertones, allowing it to complement diamonds and coloured gemstones with harmony rather than dominance.

The story of rose gold began in the 19th century, when Russian goldsmiths popularised an alloy of gold and copper that became known as Russian Gold. Its warm hue quickly gained recognition across Europe, with celebrated workshops such as Fabergé helping to establish its reputation.


Not long afterwards, rose gold became one of the defining materials of the Victorian era. It was frequently paired with coloured gemstones, particularly sapphires, whose deep blue created a striking contrast against the warmth of the metal.


At the beginning of the 20th century, designers turned their attention to platinum and the cooler aesthetic of Art Deco. History, however, soon changed course. During the Second World War, platinum was designated a strategic material for military production, significantly limiting its use in jewellery. Designers returned to gold, and rose gold once again emerged as one of the defining materials of the Retro period.

It would not be the last time. To this day, rose gold returns whenever design embraces softer proportions, natural tones and a timeless sense of elegance.

In jewellery design, the colour of the metal plays a far greater role than it may first appear. It shapes the way a gemstone is perceived and influences how it reflects and carries light.


Rose gold enhances the softness and depth of diamonds, intensifies the rich green of emeralds and creates a refined contrast with the cool tones of sapphires. Pearls, in turn, take on a softer, creamier appearance.

Designing a piece of jewellery is therefore about more than selecting a gemstone. It is also about choosing the material that will frame it. Together, they define the character of the final composition.

Not because it follows fashion, but because it transcends it.


Rose gold unites traditional craftsmanship with a contemporary spirit. It can be understated or expressive, modern or inspired by history. Rather than competing with form, it completes it. Perhaps this is why generations of designers have continued to rediscover rose gold for more than two centuries.

At La Marqueuse, the choice of gold is an essential part of the design process. The tone of the metal is considered with the same care as proportions, form and gemstone selection. It shapes the character of each piece and influences the way light, colour and detail are perceived.


One of the House's signature creations is the Malma'Rose ring, crafted in rose gold and set with a hand-mounted G-colour diamond. La Marqueuse collections also revisit timeless combinations rooted in the history of jewellery, including the pairing of rose gold with sapphires - a dialogue between contemporary design and the traditions of European craftsmanship.


Rose gold does not define the style of a piece of jewellery. Instead, it allows what matters most to come forward: proportion, light and the natural beauty of gemstones.